The previous day in Queenstown i had come accross information about the Rakiura track, one of New Zealands great walks on Stewart island. The walk can be done in 3 days and i was really keen to give it a go as i had enjoyed the Heaphy track so much. The Rakiura track is only 30km so some people could do it in two days and i even met a guy called David who was crazy and had done the track in 6 hours!
I really wanted the chance to see a Kiwi and the word was that they could be seen on the island, you've just got to be in the right place at the right time!
Day 1. Rakiura track: Oban - Fern Gully car park to North arm hut, 11km, 4-5hours.
I had been advised by the lady at thdde DOC centre in Oban that i should walk through the forest first and do the track in a clockwise direction. The weather was pretty bleak, grey skies and heavy rain would not have made for great walking along the coast.Whilst in New Zealand i have definately learned to take adbice from the locals. So i put on my wet weather gear on, i wasn't going to let the weather stop me exploring this island! The going was fairly slow as the track was very muddy, i didn't stop much as i was getting pretty wet as it was and just wanted to get to the hut and light a fire! Along the way i spotted some Kiwi probe holes and saw a white tailed deer leap off through the forest. The weather made things pretty tough, but you find that you have conversations with yourself and you manage to keep yourself motivated, i guess it's part of the challenge and good for the soul. As i approached the hut i noticed a pair of hiking boots, i wasn't going to be alone tonight. A lovely Austrian guy called Florian had beat me to it and had already lit the fire. He then told me he was going hunting in the beach for shell-fish, he later came back with a bucket full of mussels, we steamed them, they tasted so fresh, i love free food, such a treat! We were later joined by Lucy a French girl who had walked some of the track in the dark, she had marshmallows, so we toasted them on the fire!
Day 2. North arm hut to Port William, 13km, 6 hours.
Well we had heard lots of Kiwi during the night and we had even gone out to look for them, but unfortunately a sighting wasn't to be, however we did see a Weka bird and a possum. Luckily the clouds had cleared and i started the second day walking through the forest as the sunlight glinted through the trees. It felt like a completely different forest, and i could just imagine seeing a kiwi beneathe the ferns that scattered accross the forest floor, you could even imagine donosaurs living in this type of habitat it felt very prehistoric. Eventially Florian was able to catch up with me and we competed the second day together. Florian was ineterested in wood and tree fibres and structure of wood! so we were always stopping for him to take a closer look at the bark of the magnificent trees that lined the paths and i tried to locate the birds who's echoing calls filled the forest. I could just make out Tui birds fighting over the berries in the trees and robins, fan tails and bell birds lined our walkway. Florian was also very close to being pooped on by a New Zealand pigeon which was pretty funny! The Austrain at 6 foot plus had much longer legs than little old me and therefore he led the way. We crossed several creeks and also came accross historic tramlines and log hawlers that were once used to transport huge trees up from the valley. Eventually we could see the sea and we were able to hear it too. We reached the hut and dumped our bags. I was just making a brew when i realised i couldn't my phone! I had checked everywhere, i thought i had left it on the bunk back at the North arm hut, after 30 minutes of worrying and thinking of ways i could possible get it back i couldn't believe it, it was clinging on for dear life on the inside of my backpacks raincover, as it had fallen out of my raincoat pocket! How it hadn't fallen out i had no idea, i took it as a sign, to slow down, to take my time and not to rush, it's when you rush that things can go wrong. We wee joined by 3 French trampers and later that night Florian and myself went looking for the Kiwi again, this time only to find a Morepork owl and again another Possum. Time to spot a Kiwi was running out as it was our last night, i was starting to get worried.
Day 3. Port William to Lee Bay car park, 8.4km, 4 hours ish! (it took me waaaaaay longer as i stopped every 10m to take photographs)
It was 6am when i was awakened to the sound of a screaching Kiwi, i heard Florian say "Jenny did you hear that...shall we have a look?" We headed out with our torches and headlights and stood and listened. We turned our lights off and just waited. Eventually the rustling came closer, i told Florian i would put the light on and to be ready with his camera. I turned on my light to see a Stewart Island Kiwi feeding along the edge of the bush. "Oh my god Florian it's an actual Kiwi!" I whispered, Florian went to get the French people and i stayed with the Kiwi to keep track of it. Then to our amazement another Kiwi appeared. We learned that if you stand still with your torch off they will litrally come right upto you as they are blind and use their hearing and whiskers to sense things. I felt so lucky to have seen them out in their natural environment, with kiwi mission complete, we went our seperate ways and i continued on to Lee bay car park. This part of the walk was the most beautiful, at one point i found myself walking along a beautiful golden beach, then as i returned into Oban a beautiful rainbow appeared.
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